People responded to the original posting and I think most, if not all, told about a water-based gold size for composition leaf. I use this product and like it and yes, it has its uses. I also use gold leaf that is real hammered out (pressed) gold. It requires a varnish based sizing which I told about on digest. To repeat I use Rolco which is a quick drying synthetic varnish. I buy a small can because if it gets gunky I can toss it and buy another. You don't want to cut corners with gold leaf.

As for the wax paper, I use the wax paper from sandwich bags. Yes you can still find them in most groceries. They are better because they are thinner and have less wax. This can be good if you want the gold to stay better where you want it.

Here is how to transfer the wax paper onto the gold leaf:

1. Cut the wax paper to fit the outside cover of the gold leaf book or, you could make it a little larger. This way the oil from the fingers will not get onto the gold.

2. Take the book of gold leaf. Open it from the front--the part with all of the writing. Go past the section of rouge paper and you are going to work with the gold leaf facing you. Place the square of wax paper and gently place it over the gold leaf, lining it up properly. Gently rub it with a finger and the heat from it will cause the wax paper to stick temporarily onto the gold leaf.

3. I failed to tell you that you should only prepare the number of gold leaf pieces that you will need. If you prepare too many onto the wax paper, the gold may stick permanently.

4. Now you can take out a piece of wax paper with gold leaf adhered temporarily. You can also cut it to size but each time you gently cut it with sharp scissors you MUST rub the blades with a piece of rouge paper so don't throw the rouge paper away.

5. Place the wax paper with gold leaf where you have prepared the size, place down gently and rub gently with the fingers. The warmth of the fingers will cause the gold leaf to adhere to the sized area. BTW, if you are lifting up the wax paper when you are done and notice some areas that did not take (these are called skips or holidays.)You can put the wax paper in place and rub gently in those areas.

6. Throw the wax paper away and breathe again. This is much less nerve wracking than the leaf in the wind technique where you take the gold leaf up after placing the brush in the hair for static electricity. Also it helps to use the wax paper if you don't have any hair!

7. Now you can take a cotton ball and gently rub over the gold leafed area and use a large soft brush. I use a large oval mop (very soft) and brush gently.

8. Being a New Englander (nasty cheap,) I save the gold leaf pieces remaining on the table in a glass jar with a screw lid and use it on projects that don't require such exacting work.

I also suggest if you are interested in learning further that the craft farm in Vermont (The Fletcher Craft Farm) is great. They have a nifty free catalogue and you would not believe the cost (I did say I was thrifty and a New Englander) or the variety of crafts. I have taken courses in EAD (Early American Decoration) using bronzing powders and gold leaf. The instructors are the best. BTW -the guild is called the Historical Society for Early American Decoration (HSEAD). They are online and have a wonderful magazine article which illustrates many techniques including gold leaf. It may be a starting place for ideas and pictures. The guild is juried for admissions based upon stringent standards and techniques that are hundreds of years old. EAD is the one branch which shares some techniques with tole but is not tole. The address for a catalogue is Fletcher Farm, 611 Route 103 South; Ludlow, VT 05149. They celebrated their 50th birthday 2 years ago I believe.

Gary in NH