Invisible thread. Take if from a guy who _knows_ invisible thread. Here's what you do...just take the next pair of pantyhose you run or ruin or whatever, and pull out one of the threads. Unravel that thread and you will have the invisible thread that's on the market. It's really quite strong, and it's elastic to boot!

Dave Pierce

What I've done with pretty papers that I wanted to use for upholstery fabric on chairs and such is to scan the paper and then in whatever software you have to use, size it if it needs to be to a smaller scale, and then print it onto the transfer paper that is used for photo transfers (to fabric) like tee shirts and quilts. That paper is available in many stores - WalMart, Best Buy, Office Depot and others. This not at all hard to do. The one trick I learned over the years is to use a ceramic tile (you can go to a tile shop and buy just one tile - if you do this get a large one and make sure it has a smooth surface) and NOT an ironing board for the pressing surface. Also be sure to follow the mfgs instructions for time and heat setting. Another trick is when you put the transfer down onto the fabric, fold back a tiny part of one corner - this will give you a "handle" to hold on to when you peel back the paper. Then when you are ready to peel the paper off the fabric, just peel back a little bit to make sure the transfer really "took". If it didn't just smooth the transfer paper back and press more. If you just yank the transfer paper off, and the image hasn't transferred evenly, or completely it is nearly impossible to get the transfer paper back in proper place. Some fabrics take to this better than others and generally speaking, the natural fibers work best; like cotton, linen, silk and such. When using a light colored fabric or a delicate fabric it is a good idea to use a press cloth so you won't scorch your fabric and good old parchment paper works great for that. If you have any questions on this, please email me and will be glad to try to help if you want to try this.

Ronni

In the world of minis, you can glue it! Just cut out that fabric with the tiny, tiny squares on it, or any really tiny print to the size you want, plus 1/4 inch, then press the edges under that 1/4, (make two sides the same or different). Cut a piece of flannel, or fleece or any other soft fabric about 1/8" smaller than outside fabrics. Make a sandwich with the fleece in-between the 2 outside fabrics with the right side of the fabrics facing outside (* that makes sense *). Put fabric glue on the turned under fabric. This will close the sandwich together. If you can you might want to take occasional in-out stitch with floss or even regular thread just to make a knot. Leave the knot with about a 1/8" "tail". You can make these knots across the quilt wherever you want and it will make the quilt puffy, or just leave as is. I find that if you press the edges so that it hangs down on the sides, you can have it hang nicely. The lighter weight the fabric is, the better it will drape. A "handkerchief" batiste, for example, hangs better than one of the cheaper fabrics that have a lot of sizing in it. I also, find that if you wash your fabric first before you work with it at all, it removes all that sizing that stiffens the fabric and then afterwards if you need to stiffen it at all, you can just use fabric sizing or starch to make it smooth. If you want it to permanently be set on a bed, just a bit of glue underneath will hold it down. I hate to see quilts sticking out like a board from the bed, so sometimes I use a bit of tacky gum to hold them down too. good luck.

Ruthanne in sunny, hot, (86), FT.MYERS, FL

I made all the curtains for my dollhouse. I have found that only the softest lace or silk work the best. It has to be really flimsy material. Then it hangs. In my silk curtains in the LR, I didn't hem them. I guess I could have used the selvage edge but just pulled threads to get a straight edge then trimmed. The hem causes bulk and then they wouldn't hang right.

For the little girl's room I used the softest lace I could find. A lot of times if you wash fabric good and get the sizing out, that helps a lot.

Linda In CT

To get your fabrics to drape well, I work on foam board with a gazillion straight pins and when it is exactly the way I want it, I spray it with a thin starch - several times.

For that really elegant look and drapeability, use silk - nothing beats it for doing exactly what you want, and no need to spray anything on after. I also make round tablecloths with ease, by inverting the cloth and table into a teacup, and arranging the folds.

Dawn-Moree in Welcome, MD

Draping: For holding the "drape" try spraying with hair spray and while the material is still moist with the hair spray, fold and drape it to your liking.

DrBob...Delray Beach, FL

When trying to get the fabric to behave in the way you want, it is essential that you choose the correct type. Don't try to battle with polyester and manmade fibers. Use only pure silks and fine cotton fabrics and you will find that these can be pressed and moulded into shape and will give a more natural finish. Also if you need to glue it will stick much easier with only a minimum amount of glue.

Fran

I made all the curtains for my dollhouse. I have found that only the softest lace or silk work the best. It has to be really flimsy material. Then it hangs. In my silk curtains in the LR, I didn't hem them. I guess I could have used the selvage edge but just pulled threads to get a straight edge then trimmed. The hem causes bulk and then they wouldn't hang right. For the little girl's room I used the softest lace I could find. A lot of times if you wash fabric well and get the sizing out, that helps a lot.

The best method I've found for draping (if I didn't want to go thru the hours of stiffening, pinning, and shaping), is to sew or glue fine copper wire into the hem of the fabric. Then shape the wire around a small dowel. It works best on dust ruffles. It also works to drape bed coverings and keep the corners down.

Carol Wagner, Joshua Tree Calif

bunka substitute: Barbara Morrison asked about bunka and I assume she means the thread that unravels to such a nice curly thread and makes wonderful miniature rugs. If you truly want to do the punch needle work that is called bunka in Japan (and here) look for punch needle and/or iglotchki (am not sure of the spelling) which is very similar and uses the same technique. If you are not using it for a punch needle and only need it for trim, any kind of cord that unravels by pulling a thread will work. I have bought fancy tassels and pulled them apart just to get the thread that is then unraveled. It is like taking out crochet chain.

Jacqui, Goddess of Chaos