Needlework Frames: If you are making a pillow or picture or something else small, you can make your own frame from thick card stock and tape the silk gauze in place with masking tape.

If you are doing rugs that are a bit larger, for instance I'm currently doing a rug that measures 8" by 6", you can buy sets of frames so that you can make up one to suit. I got mine in the UK but I'm sure you will be able to find something in the US. This set had 5 pairs of frames ranging from about 4" up to 12" long, and you just slot together the two pairs that make up the size that suits your current piece of work.

Sue from Garstang, UK
01/31/04

Stair Carpet: I have done them in needle punch embroidery and have used stretcher bars for artist's canvases (available at stores like Michael's and inexpensive too). You can purchase these in all sorts of sizes, so that you can create the frame you need for your stair runner. With npunch needle work I stretch the fabric over the frame and tack it down tightly.

Nancy W
01/31/04

From: Jonathan
Date: January 24, 2004


If any of you do needlepoint in miniature, there is a Yahoo group / email list you may be interested in.
It's called "Petitpointers", and it's specifically for those of us who stitch miniature rugs, pillows, bellpulls and pictures. You can get great advice as to how to finish rugs and pillows, where to get gauze and supplies, and who has which patterns.

You can check out our homepage at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Petitpointers/

Schrocks, Intl. (a mail order company, 800 426 4659) carries a paper crimper that will crimp items up to 3 inches wide. It will probably not work on fabrics that would need heat to set, but it would be fine for paper and acetate ribbons.

Below is the item number and specifications:
# 97100 1/8 INCH PAPER CORRUGATOR/TUBE WRINGE $8.95 retail


Barbara N DeVilbiss
1/20/2004

PLEATED RIBBON GIZMO: Any one who is in Ohio can purchase at Pat Catans a little gizmo for about $10.00. Yyou put ribbon in at one end and turn the dial and it comes out pleated at the other end.
It will take ribbon up to about 3-4 inches wide. If you want more in length fold it and put through the machine. If my memory is right its colour is orange and blue. It's great for drapes, clothing and whatever.

sherrall
16 Jan 04

I do a lot of leather craft and recently made some rifle sheaths and gun belts with holsters on a 1/12 scale. I found that Duco Cement will hold well. It bonds to most anything and dries in a few hours. It did not appear to stain the leather.

Miss Maggie
30 Nov 2003

Good luck finding thin leather for minis, mostly in the form of ladies fine gloves, and sometimes in old purses. I cut them up as needed. Also, men's wallets are a good source. I prefer swap meets and thrift shops because there are so many more possibilities than the typical garage sale, but, you never know when you will find a treasure.

Here in Los Angeles there is a Vintage Clothing and Textile show once a year, and there are good things to be found, usually more expensive because of the dealer's costs.

Bernice Rosenberg
Los Angeles CA
14 Jan 2004

When I block needlework I take a folded terry towel and pin the item face down squared and cover with a damp tea towel and press with an iron preheated to "cotton" just until the steam stops rising. I repeat, moving the towel, until when I remove the pins the piece lies flat. Normally I wait to finish the edge until I have eight or ten rows of canvas at the edges and I fold them under until about three rows extend beyond the worked part of the rug on all four sides; then I complete the edge pattern through both thicknesses and trim the remaining canvas from the stitching on the underside.

HTH
12 Jan 2004

To block, I pin the piece to my ironing board using T-pins. Insert the pins just outside the last row of stitches. Pull slightly as you go if you need to square the piece up. I then put a very damp wash cloth over it, lay a dry cloth over that, and iron it just long enough to steam it really good (my directions are so specific!). Uncover, then leave to dry for about a day.

To finish, I trim the extra canvas to about 1/2", although less is OK if that's all you've got, and turn it ALL THE WAY under -- the last row of stitches will be bowed slightly and none of the canvas shows - and press. At this point I'm sure hard-core needlepointers will have a heart attack so they can stop reading. I glue down the turned-under edges with my favorite white glue (glue lightly as you don't want the glue to bleed through), or cut a piece of muslin just smaller than the rug and adhere it to the entire back with wonder-under. If there's any canvas showing around the edges, you can go over it with a marker that matches the last row of stitches.

It's easier than it sounds and I rarely have a problem with canvas showing.

Some people cut the canvas rather than turning it under. I've done this and wasn't happy with the result -- it's hard to cut close enough so little bits of canvas aren't sticking out. If you decide to cut, be sure to seal the last row of stitches at the canvas with a line of clear-drying white glue so they won't slip.

Susan Loeffler
Atlanta
Tue, 13 Jan 2004

In case any of you are interested, the best way to cut strips of fabric, is to first coat the back with Tacky glue and let it dry. Then cut from the un-glued side with a SHARP single edged blade, they are thinner than an Xacto blade! I use up a LOT of them and buy them 100 at a time in Home Depot's paint department.

Alice Zinn
Pt. St. Lucie FL
13 Dec 2003