Graduation Dog: Today, I was working making heads for polar bears rugs and had a little piece of white Sculpey left over. I needed a bit of a break, and the clay 'spoke' to me, and I made a cute mini autograph dog with a graduation hat. You can see pictures to illustrate the instructions below in my Assorted Miniatures album on Webshots http://community.webshots.com/user/iamazin.

Let me start by saying you can leave off his cap and add a bow at the neck to use him for a Sweet 16 girl, or other event! The parts are pictured on the web page. Here are the directions.

After making all your parts from polymer clay, attach them together by rolling the 'seams' back and forth using a nice smooth, round toothpick or the handle of a paintbrush. When adding the head to the body, create a 'neck' by shaping the clay in that area with your tool. After you add each leg, turn the end forward slightly to form a paw. Make two vertical dents in the paw part with the toothpick to make the dogs 'toes'. If you are making the graduation version, squish a tiny ball of black clay onto the top of the head, then make sure the top of that is flat.

Bake at 275 degrees for about 10 minutes. Let cool.

Using black paint or marker, paint on two dots for eyes, a nose and a smiling mouth as in the photo. Center and glue the black paper square to the black clay base on the dog's head.

Make the tassel as shown in the picture, using a piece of silk or embroidery thread. Tie a knot in the middle of a short length of thread, then cut most of the strands off on one side of the knot. Trim to the length you want and glue to the hat, the tassel side hanging down and add a tiny black bead or drop of dimensional paint at the center top of the hat.

Using the finest point marker you can, sign your dog! You can add other names as well, or have fun letting your friends sign it! Please feel free to share this project with your miniatures friends or clubs. You can download and or print the photos from my Webshots album. All I ask is that you do NOT make them to sell.

Alice Zinn- Pt. St. Lucie FL

How to make a mini lampshade: Determine the desired diameter of the top opening, diameter of the bottom opening, and height of the shade. Find or make 2 wire rings, one for the top opening and the other for the bottom opening. Measure carefully.

On paper that is not going to be the lampshade, make a diagram (If only I could draw on the darned computer!) as follows: Make an inverted "T", i.e., horizontal line with perpendicular vertical line going up from the center point.

Mark the intersecting point"A." Measuring from that point going up the vertical, mark the height of the shade as "B." (The vertical will need to be higher than that point, so if it's not, elongate it.)
Mark the width of the bottom opening on the horizontal line, with A as the exact mid-point. The outer points will be "C" on the left and "D" on the right.

At point B, and using B as the mid-point, mark the width of the top opening with points "E" on the left and "F" on the right. This will be parallel to the bottom horizontal.
Connect C and E, continuing that line until it meets the center vertical, and then do the same with D and F. The point on the vertical where they meet will be point "G."

Cut a strip of cardstock (index card works well) about 1/4" wide x 3" long, depending on the height and size of your shade. Down the center of the strip, mark three points to correspond with points G, E, and C (or G, F and D -- same diff). Put a decent-sized pin hole (large enough to accommodate a sharp pencil point) at points C and E.
Pin the paper you will be using for the shade to a piece of cardboard, cork board, or other surface to which the paper can be pinned.

Put a straight pin through point G on the strip, and pin it to the lampshade paper. With a sharp pencil point in point E on the strip, and carefully keeping the strip attached to the paper and board at point G, draw a large arc. Make a complete circle if you wish; you can always trip later.
With the same sharp pencil (or a different one -- knock yourself out!) in point C on the strip, make another large arc or circle. BINGO! You now have the correct shape to cut out.
To determine the length of the paper, measure the circumference of the two openings, and then measure out the same distances on the respective arcs, keeping the beginning and ending points of each arc in line with good old point G. Don't cut on these lines, though; leave a bit(1/4"-ish) to overlap and glue.

Glue ends together to get your conical shape. Using thin strips of tape -- and a lot of patience -- tape the metal rings to the openings.

Rosemary

Depth: Wonder how many of you are like me and like a 3 dimensional effect with the pictures they use in their minis for looking outdoors through windows or doors? I knew when I started doing this that it would add hours to a project but still decided I had to do it. The effect is fantastic but not for the faint of heart who want something done right away. It's extremely time consuming but well worth the effort.

If you looked out the window, you saw mountains. I didn't want just a picture of mountains, there wasn't enough room for actually making any, it was only a space about 1 1/2" deep and lot's of stuff had to go in that space. So I proceeded to make several copies of a mountain with sunset scene, and cut out the mountains and glued them atop each other until it had the effect I wanted, then bent the bottom of the picture forward so that it sloped in the right way. The effect was amazing.

Then I actually drew birds flying overhead, some tiny ones sitting in the snow up closer to the picture window and on top of the bike seat, that was just outside the window. Even had a "Don't cut the grass" sign just sticking up out of the snow. Had a birdfeeder out there too

That left a space to the right of that window that was the same depth that I couldn't figure out what to do with. Didn't want to waste it, so I put in a wide door opening and behind it I found a picture looking off into other rooms with a curving staircase in front and to the left. Again I proceeded to print several copies of the picture, cut out the steps, and then the railings and glued them on top of each other until they were 3 dimensional. I slightly curved the bottom of the picture out so it looked like the floor that was in the roombox blended right into the other room. Made the room look much huger than what it was. There was a large plant to the left of the staircase and I also cut out tons of little leaves and glued them around the picture so it looked like there really was a plant there, bent this way and that so that the leaves looked realistic.

Kathy in E. TN

People responded to the original posting and I think most, if not all, told about a water-based gold size for composition leaf. I use this product and like it and yes, it has its uses. I also use gold leaf that is real hammered out (pressed) gold. It requires a varnish based sizing which I told about on digest. To repeat I use Rolco which is a quick drying synthetic varnish. I buy a small can because if it gets gunky I can toss it and buy another. You don't want to cut corners with gold leaf.

As for the wax paper, I use the wax paper from sandwich bags. Yes you can still find them in most groceries. They are better because they are thinner and have less wax. This can be good if you want the gold to stay better where you want it.

Here is how to transfer the wax paper onto the gold leaf:

1. Cut the wax paper to fit the outside cover of the gold leaf book or, you could make it a little larger. This way the oil from the fingers will not get onto the gold.

2. Take the book of gold leaf. Open it from the front--the part with all of the writing. Go past the section of rouge paper and you are going to work with the gold leaf facing you. Place the square of wax paper and gently place it over the gold leaf, lining it up properly. Gently rub it with a finger and the heat from it will cause the wax paper to stick temporarily onto the gold leaf.

3. I failed to tell you that you should only prepare the number of gold leaf pieces that you will need. If you prepare too many onto the wax paper, the gold may stick permanently.

4. Now you can take out a piece of wax paper with gold leaf adhered temporarily. You can also cut it to size but each time you gently cut it with sharp scissors you MUST rub the blades with a piece of rouge paper so don't throw the rouge paper away.

5. Place the wax paper with gold leaf where you have prepared the size, place down gently and rub gently with the fingers. The warmth of the fingers will cause the gold leaf to adhere to the sized area. BTW, if you are lifting up the wax paper when you are done and notice some areas that did not take (these are called skips or holidays.)You can put the wax paper in place and rub gently in those areas.

6. Throw the wax paper away and breathe again. This is much less nerve wracking than the leaf in the wind technique where you take the gold leaf up after placing the brush in the hair for static electricity. Also it helps to use the wax paper if you don't have any hair!

7. Now you can take a cotton ball and gently rub over the gold leafed area and use a large soft brush. I use a large oval mop (very soft) and brush gently.

8. Being a New Englander (nasty cheap,) I save the gold leaf pieces remaining on the table in a glass jar with a screw lid and use it on projects that don't require such exacting work.

I also suggest if you are interested in learning further that the craft farm in Vermont (The Fletcher Craft Farm) is great. They have a nifty free catalogue and you would not believe the cost (I did say I was thrifty and a New Englander) or the variety of crafts. I have taken courses in EAD (Early American Decoration) using bronzing powders and gold leaf. The instructors are the best. BTW -the guild is called the Historical Society for Early American Decoration (HSEAD). They are online and have a wonderful magazine article which illustrates many techniques including gold leaf. It may be a starting place for ideas and pictures. The guild is juried for admissions based upon stringent standards and techniques that are hundreds of years old. EAD is the one branch which shares some techniques with tole but is not tole. The address for a catalogue is Fletcher Farm, 611 Route 103 South; Ludlow, VT 05149. They celebrated their 50th birthday 2 years ago I believe.

Gary in NH

Old Painted Sign on Building: I would suggest the following:

[1] Decide on the ad desired for building. Either scan it through your computer or have it copied at your nearest copy shop. When having the printing done ask for the lightest possible print. Have at least 3 copies made -- allows for mistakes. If doing on your computer set the print quality for the lightest available [go into properties in the printer setup dialog box]. After printing off copies with the desired result. Be sure to back and RESET the print quality to NORMAL. Can't emphasize that enough.

[2] Spray the copies with a fixative spray. You purchase this at an art supply or art & frame store. Might also find at Michael’s, Aaron Brothers. Let dry thoroughly.

[3] Decide on the size and how much of the ad you want to actually see on the building. Begin TEARING the edges of the print to size to get the "old, ragged look".

[4] Apply YES glue to back of print. Apply to building and let dry at least 24 - 36 hours.

[5] Apply Matte finish Mod Podge over the print. Let dry 24 hours.

[6] Apply antiquing gel or your mix of "dirty wash" over the print and side of building. If using antiquing gel wipe off gently to create effect desired. You might also want to sand paper the ad prior to antiquing it depending on the effect you want.

Patricia, Redwood City

Bricks: I used this method to make the facade of a local masonry building before it was torn down. I needed brick walls in a couple of places. First I carved bricks into a sheet of 1/8" thick basswood. I sealed it with varnish then covered it with plaster of Paris to give it texture. I gave it a final sealing with a fixative. Over this I painted many layers of liquid latex. Once it all dried well I removed the latex and poured in plaster of Paris. I repeated the casting process until I had several dozen sheets of bricks about 3 inches high and six inches long. I cut out every other brick on each end so they would finger into the next sheet. I glued these bricks to the plywood wall with liquid nails. After the wall was built I cleaned up and aged the bricks then painted them brick color. (Use acrylics, they soak into the plaster best. To get a good brick effect I did not paint all bricks the same color -- some are darker than others. After the paint has dried well I gave the bricks a coating or Flat Deft spray. When the Deft has thoroughly dried I spread in the mortar and wiped it right off. The mortar will dull the gloss of the Deft.

Bill Hudson

Bending Plexiglass: In my own case I did use my oven and ended up with 250 degrees F - 15 to 20 minutes and just kept watching till it seemed to sag. I had placed on sheet of alum. foil and removed wearing heavy cooking gloves, and bent over my form for 2 sided front on gift box display. My bend was a soft curve, which was what I was after. As plan on having the 2 box sides -glued together to box top, protect it when I want to store.

Regina, Wilmington, DE

Parquet Flooring: I just completed a great parquet floor that turned out wonderfully. Here are some tips on making it easy.

1. First I glued 1/8 X 1/16 bass wood strips using glue on the bottom only so there was not any seepage onto the top, onto 11 X 17 1/8" graph paper in groups of four (this will give you mini size 6" squares when complete).
2. Then stain each set of four (I used Golden Oak) and let dry.
3. Using that handy X-Acto miter box, cut each length of 4 boards into 1/2"squares (Turn the strips upside down so that the graph paper is on top and it gives you easy 1/2" marks. Put all your mini parquet into a zip lock bag for use)
4. Cut another piece of graph paper the size of your finished floor. I marked out an area for the parquet, and a plain wood strip border around the perimeter of the room.
5. Glue the 1/2" squares onto the cut graph paper starting from the middle out. Use the graph lines to line up your pieces. Push them up tight close to each other to minimize gaps.
6. I glued a border of walnut stained board around the parquet and then finished with Golden Oak outside of that.
7. Fill any gaps with putty and then run a coat of Golden Oak stain over it all.
8. Apply final finish of your choice.

It came out absolutely lovely and I am very impressed with myself. I prefer the 1/2" squares to the 1" squares. It just looks finer.

Michael

House of Miniature kits:

I would suggest the following:

1. Identify all the parts in your kit.
2. Dry fit your pieces together, so you know by looking which is which.
3. Mark an 'X' with a pencil on any joint that will be glued. That way you don't stain it and it will hold better.
4. Stain each area not marked by an 'X'.
5. After drying thoroughly, lightly sand again to smooth the surface.
6. When it is as smooth as you want it, now is when you put the clear coat on, whether it be high gloss or matte.
7. Lightly sand using a crumpled up brown grocery sack.
8. Glue in place. A toothpick comes in handy here, as does a fishing line tapedto a toothpick.

I found that if you stain and seal after you glue there will be many places thatyou will miss getting the finish you desire, and you risk leaving glue residue on that will not take the stain.

Many projects can be worked on at once, as my coffee table was proof of that. I kept a separate tray for each ongoing kit, with the box on each so I could see at a glance which was which. The only 'human' in the house that didn't like my taking over table with all these projects was the cats. (any horizontal surface is their territory!). The kids liked it, cause they didn't have to fetch so many things for me, and didn't hear me WHINE as long as I had something to do with my hands and mind!

Lisa Lynn

Paper Plates: A fellow club member made me a set of paper plates using dh wallpaper and chrysonbon plastic plates as the mold. Just talked to her and here are her instructions.

#1. Cut as many circles "plates" that you will need + 2 or 3 extra for booboo's a bit bigger than a chrysnbon plastic plate from desired wallpaper. (Birthday, Holiday, patterned, or plain.) If you are working with a paper with special design, center the design in your circle. She cut hers by hand but you might find a hole punch large enough to speed the job along.(Or cut small squares instead and trim after shaping, and before removing from the forms.
#2. Soak your circles (or squares) in warm water for a few moments.
#3. Layer your circles between the plastic Chrysonbon plates (Plate, paper, plate, paper, plate, paper, plate. Always starting and ending with the plastic plates.
#4. Clamp with clothespin or other clamp and let dry overnight.
#5. Trim edges if needed before removing all the "sandwiches."
#6. If you want a finish just tack them to a board with blue tack, & spray lightly with a gloss or matt spray. Enjoy!

Diane in SFBA