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Making a decorative square head nail |
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Tuesday, April 26 2005 @ 05:23 PM Views: 185 |
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Golf club lead for wrought iron strap hinge, making a decorative square head nail #195 Karin Corbin
2/11/04
Take a tin can, burn off the tin with a torch and clean up and flatten out the metal. Next cut the hinge shape out with a pair of tin snips, cleaning up the edges with a small file. When you get ready to do a production run of these parts you will be stacking up the metal between some thin plywood that has a pattern glued to it and cut the stack on a scroll saw with a jewellers blade in it so you can make a number of them at once. Also drill the holes for the square head nails that typically attach a wrought hinge to a door before you pry this stack of hinges apart. After the tin is cut grab a piece of the adhesive backed golf club lead and stuck it to the strap hinge. Trim the excess off with an exacto knife using the tin shape as the guide. Then set the piece, lead side up, on a scrap of wood and go at it with the ball end of a ball peen hammer to get the look of hammered wrought iron. The lead is very soft so it's easy to hammer in those tool marks. Taking a pair of round nosed jeweller's pliers bend the hinge end around into a tight loop for a hinge pin to go through. Use some Jax Pewter Black to put a dull, dark patina on the piece and the results look great, the hinge is very strong and the project took a relatively short time. You can make a matching wrought iron door handle using this same method, putting the bends into it with the jeweller's pliers.
Next you need a decorative square head nail to put this hinge on the door with. For this use a solid brass, escutcheon pin.. You can get these at most any hardware store, they are a small brad type of nail, larger than the typical dollhouse nails. Tape it a short ways into a wood block just deep enough to hold it there and then create four flats on the round head using a Dremel motor with a diamond coated cut off disk acting like a sanding disk, you could also do it with an actual sanding disk. Time required to make a square head nail...maybe 5 seconds. You can also put some Jax Pewter Black on this to make it look like iron. Plan to clip the brass pin fairly short with a pair of wire cutters, drill a small hole in the door and then glue it in place. The pin would split the wood if you tried to use it as a real nail. The length of the strap hinge will be glued for extra strength. Use clear adhesive caulk for this type of work, it will stick to the metal and painted, varnished, stained or bare wood.
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First Project Recommendations |
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Monday, April 25 2005 @ 03:33 PM Views: 171 |
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For a first timer, I would not suggest anything as major as a room setting. Success is the greatest motivator, but anything that takes more than a couple of weeks to bring to "Parlor Display Completion" will become
burdensome long before you ever get to relish the greatest pleasures of this art form. For newcomers with access to a mini store or craft store that carries dollhouse components, the following would be my suggested entry into doll housing.
Come In Through The Front Door. That is, build a simple front door display that goes into a glass dome. I used to offer a workshop kit but I think a greater sense of personal achievement comes for those who gather
the parts themselves. Get a dome, a heavy piece of foam board for the wall, and a manufactured but unfinished door such as Houseworks manufactures (or buy some basswood and make your own door). Collect wall paper, moldings (including base board, door casings, chair rail, ceiling cornice, etc) for the interior side of the door. Get sheet wood siding for the exterior and choose either real wood strips or printed paper flooring for both inside and the outside porch. There will be paint, stain pens, varnish, glue, wallpaper
paste, brushes, knives, saws, and more to acquire and create working/storing places for. When you get it all layed out and ready to
build- - -take a long look at your own real front door. Be ever so observant. Don't just see the doorknob but also the hinges where they show on the inside even when the door is closed. Look at the tiny bit of the brass striker plate that also shows inside. Notice the threshold, the edgewise peek of weather strip, key scratches in the paint or varnish, the doorstop in the baseboard, and maybe a brass peep hole - - -all details of "just a simple door". Outside, on the front porch of a wood sided house, notice whether or not the siding come all the way down to the floor? Learning to see is preliminary to learning how to hold a brush for those who would be great painters.
When it is built;is it exciting? Maybe we need to add a mailbox outside and a small table inside to stack the day's mail. Little details are important. A door mat, the corner of a note or key tucked under the door mat, muddy shoes left outside or slippers to put on within. Do you get the idea? This is only a simple front door but incorporates most of the tasks that
are repeated endlessly in the creation of a mantle room box or table top mansion. You will love it more than anybody who looks at it will. Those who take the time to look, however, will be far more impressed than those who look at a six month project far from completion. You will need to look at it from time to time to remind yourself that things do come to fruition.
Mel K.
1/20/04
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Making floor tiles |
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Monday, April 25 2005 @ 10:26 AM Views: 148 |
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Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004
Subject: floortiles
I am Rita from Germany. I saw your question and decided to
answer your privatlay, because I can include some pics of my floor tiles this way.
I don`t know if you have this stuff over there, but I use airdrying clay for my tiles.It comes in blocks , the colour is light or darker
terracotta and it is very easy to use.
I just cut thin slices off with a sharp big knife, then cut the slices into squares or rectangles.
I lay the floor as long as the clay is soft ! Don`t let it dry first, because
is wharps a little, if you don`t glue it down immediately.To glue it to the surface I use simple white glue. After it is bonedry, fill the gaps with thin plaster of Paris. Apply this
with a spatula. Wipe off with a wet sponge or cloth quickly and don`t rub to
hard, because the water would soften the clay again.
If you don`t want the " dirty old " look, paint the tiles with high gloss paint ( not waterbased, because it would soften the clay
again ) and fill the gaps after this. Clean carefully, after drying to bring the
shiny look back.
Rita B.
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