Little Debbie vignette: you could try to do something similar to what I did. I needed to cover my laundry/basement Roombox. It was 9 1/2 x 13 and none of the Tide boxes were large enough. I disassembled the boxes(I used two). I soaked the cardboard for a while and the paper separated from the cardboard backing. I then applied the paper on the box and decoupaged it. Looks very good. Perhaps you could construct your Roombox the size you want for the vignette and use a similar technique.

Pearl

Little Debbie Scene: what if you built a box out of foamcore or matboard, then cut and taped segments of the edges around the top of several Little Debbie boxes together for a frame. Then have the frame color-copied at a Kinko's or your local printing place so you get a solid, neat piece, spritz with clear acrylic fixative, cut out a window in the middle, back the window with acetate or glass, and glue to the box front once you have decorated the study scene? That would allow you to change the proportions to something better suited to 1:12. Or you could accept the size of the standard Little Debbie package, reinforce it with matboard and do the scene in 1:16 or 1:24 scale.

Loretta.Sniarowski

I have made two Dura-Craft kits. I used Elmer's wood glue and LOTS of masking tape to put them together. Here are some other things I figured out to do from one kit to the next: I sealed both sides of each plywood sheet with sanding sealer, it made sanding easier.

I made masking tape labels for the larger pieces. I grouped smaller pieces (stairway components, for example) into Ziplock bags and labeled what they were and where they went (especially for windows and doors!). I thought long and hard about which rooms I wanted for each function and then took the instruction booklet, and on the photo of the interior I wrote which room was what, identified the pieces and painted/wallpapered before assembly. I assembled the base and then "dry-fit" the exterior walls to determine placement for the second and third floors. I used a carpenter's square to keep everything square. Even then I did lots of sanding and trimming to get a fit. I didn't electrify, either. Maybe next time...

Havana (FL) Holly

I built a very basic box using 3 picture frames and some leftover plywood as the basis. Joint compound was used for texturizing because that is what I had on hand. I figure this project cost me under $10 because I built everything including the window and door. The picture frames allowed for a see through top, and large side picture windows that you might see in a contemporary gallery. Mine is done in southwest style, but is relatively plain because I wanted the artwork within to be the focal point. You can see the finished results in my Epson albums, the pictures are in the "Mini Art/sculpture Gallery album. I welcome your questions and/or comments.
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumList?u=1655407

Bonnie Gibson - Tucson, Arizona

Head to your nearest Thrift Shop. Quite often they have birdcages for next to nothing. Take it home, give it a good scrub with a brush, let dry Thoroughly, spray with a metal prime coat, than spray with Krylon black matt. It will be fine and a lot less $$$$'s. Might even find an almost new one like I did. Turned it into an enclosed bird sanctuary. With "no Cats allowed" sign on the outside. Guess what! The cat family are all in attendance, with Mom & kids resting in the sun, which dad checks out Peter the Parrot. (who's cage door is open) naughty cat. My particular birdcage had an aqua tray that when turned upside down looked like castle roof. I sprayed it with 3 coats of Karolyn's Fabulous Finishes - Make it Stone. Looks like stucco and is a wonderful product. Have used it on several roomboxes both for stucco and foundations. I love the stuff. So fast, and durable. There is an acrylic top coat that gives it a good sealer, so is super easy to keep dust free, and clean. Have fun! Birdcages make great containers for our mini's.

Diane in SFBA

Foamcore Roomboxes: The May 2000 issue of DM has an excellent how-to by Frank Lerner. He makes it very easy. Or you could do like I do and just wing it. Make it any size you want it to be. How big is the largest item going in, going to be? Go on from there. Whatever looks right is what I use. Also check out Joann Swanson's Wizard room in the October 2000 issue of DM. She uses foamcore for the walls, floors-everything.

Pam in St. Louie

Special Minis: consider making unique wall arrangements for your home with your special finds. An old wood clock case without the clock makes a beautiful house for miniatures, simple shadowbox frames are easy and readily assessable at most hobby stores. If you bought it, use it and love it. I am working on a series of faux books for a client, the kind of teak reproductions used to store old letters or jewelry. Each book has a title that represents the items that reside within the pages. A book on Kites opens to show a small collection of kites, wind socks and a picnic. The books will stack on a bookshelf just like their real counterparts. When the owner wish's to show off her prizes, she will pull out the appropriate volume and viola!

Becky Holliday

Plexi Front for Roombox: The easiest way to apply Plexi to the front of a room box is to construct a channel to insert it into. This is simply a U shaped piece of wood applied to both sides and the base of the box. The plexi slides into the center of the U. This allows you to raise it up and down........ I often make my own with a piece of 1/4 inch x 1/8 inch basswood glued directly to all 4 sides of the front opening of the box. Use a good strong glue such as Tite Bond. I miter the corners just as if I were applying a frame to a picture........ Follow this with a 1/8" sq. strip of basswood firmly glued to the outer edges of the first board. Only apply this to the sides and base of the front opening of the box. This will be the channel and the size of the wood is determined by the thickness of your plexi.....Complete the channel by gluing either a pretty molding or another piece of 1/4 inch x 1/8 inch basswood to the sides and base. Glue the same molding to the top of your piece of plexi. This will create a handle that makes inserting the plexi easier for you.

Becky Holliday

Installing Plexiglas on Back of Dollhouse: I purchased the Northeastern guttering for dollhouses and glued it to each straight side of the back and if desired it could also be placed at the bottom edge. The Plexiglas fits perfectly into the gutter openings.

Juanita in Missouri

Installing Plexiglas on Back of Dollhouse: I use self adhesive Velcro strips from the hardware store.

Tom Berkner